Small engine repair

[Matthitjah]

Saint's,

Does anyone know anything about small engine repair?

I have a John Deere Lawn Tractor. It is well maintained and only 3 years old. A few dents from the wife riding it, LOL. Other than that it is in awesome shape.

It was fine up until a week ago. It just stopped working after mowing for some time. Went to restart it and click, click, nothing.

I know a little about this kinda stuff.

So I checked all the saftey switches. They all work and have continuity. I also have Battery power. Lights work and all.

I have narrowed it down to the Starter switch. I can cross up the connectors on the Solenoid with the safety brake on and get the engine to turn. However it will not ignite. The key at this point is in the run position. It's not the solenoid either. URGHHH!

Anyone know anything about this stuff?

I've called several local John Deere dealers and they all have a different answer which leads me to a brick wall each time.

Could it be something as simple as the Starter switch having a relay in it that is keeping it from igniting?

Peace,

Dave

[Giaour]

Check your safety switches first.

They tend to get loose and corrode.

(try the safety switch that cuts the motor when you get off the seat first.)

[RGR]

Check your safety switches first.

They tend to get loose and corrode.

(try the safety switch that cuts the motor when you get off the seat first.)

Get some Deoxit and clean your controls. It's known moreso for audio applications, but it works well in other applications as well. It will eat away any corrosion and help give future protection as well.

[traveller]

Got gas?

[RGR]

Got gas?

You could always get a goat!

[tah]

This is from my son the mechanic...

Hello there,

I've read your post and may have some ideas. I've been an all around mechanic for several years now and have yet to meet a John Deer lawn tractor that i actually liked, sorry for your troubles, but maybe these ideas will point you in a direction.

Check to see if the carb has an electric fuel cut off under the bowl, and make sure it is working (While your at it, check inside the bowl for debris or moisture buildup). If your ignition switch doesn't work, your fuel cutoff will not disengage, bummer.

Sorry to say this, but you need to check all wiring and connectors to make sure all is as should be with no fraying or corrosion anywhere not fun!!

If all else fails, remove the fan shroud and check the ignition coil (or coils) for rust or corrosion by removing them from the block and cleaning the areas where they mount (both block and coil assembly).

However, without hearing the sound it makes when you try to start it, i cannot know whether it has swallowed a valve or not. To check this, pull the air filter off of the engine and cross the solenoid. Air should only be drawn into the intake, if it does not suck on your hand or it does but pushes your hand away as well your problems have just become very expensive, sorry

Whatever you deside to do, be careful, and watch your fingers, they don't grow back

[traveller]

Ok, hubby said you could have a problem with the ignition switch.

[tah]

another thing to watch for one the lawn tractor,

There are usually safety catches on the clutch petal, under the seat, and connected to the blade engagement lever (or in with the pto switch if you have a pull switch to turn on the blades). Failure at any one of these points, and the engine will not start or run.

Have one more hint if you are an experienced mechanic, let me know.

[Matthitjah]

Ha, Ha , Ha,

Gas was the first thing I checked.

Why I Oughta! DOINK!

All cutoff switches check out. I pulled them all and open and closed them checking for continuity. They all work. The Ignition switch appears to work. You can put it on run and actually jump the solenoid and the engine will turn. It just won't ignite.

I think I have narrowed it down tonight to the Ignition module or coil as some would call it.

Anyone know how to check one of those with a Volt/Ohm meter?

Tah,

Thank your son. I already checked all the wiring. I also checked the carb and the electronic fuel cutoff is working.

If all else fails, remove the fan shroud and check the ignition coil (or coils) for rust or corrosion by removing them from the block and cleaning the areas where they mount (both block and coil assembly).

This is a very rusty area. My brother in law (He's a mechanic) thinks it is the coil as well.

The coil consists of this unit of like layers of steel pressed together. Some of the layers are actually splitting apart and the place where it mounts and meets the block is very rusty. It's not really the block but the top of the engine that kind of spins against the coil unit. Very rusty.

I believe this may be the problem.

Trav,

Yes the ignition switch plays into this. However I'm just wondering if the coil has a relay in it that shuts down the switch just like the other safety cutoffs.

You see, the engine will turn and even crank. Although not through the ignition switch. It has to be bypassed by putting it on run and then when the solenoid is jumped putting power directly to the Starter it cranks. The gas is still coming through into the Carb and the engine cranks.

There is just never any ignition. Which leads me to believe there is no charge building up in the coil to spark the ignition.

Thank God I paid just enough attention in shop class in High School to get the principles down. LOL Of course those days are still a blur to me. I just seem to remember spending more time trying to figure out how to cut class rather than actually listening. Ah' but it's True God has spent all these years preparing me even in my actions where I thought I was being "Oh So Clever".

Peace,

Dave

[O'Dannyboy]

You said you were able to get it to turn over after you bypass a thing or two, so you already know where one problem is. I was going to suggest the coil but it seems that you found that too. To test the coil? Not really. Best bet is to price out a new coil. If you can get a used on somewhere then more power to ya. Chances are it wont be too expensive, or at least I would hope not. Somewhere around 20-40 bucks I would think. Make sure you buy it some place that has a decent return policy so you can return it if by chance it turns out to be something else. While your at it you might want to check your plug/plugs and make sure they weren't fouled when the coil went out. Get a tube of dielectric grease and lube all your terminals, especially those that are exposed to the elements. Sounds like a good time to change the oil too. Heck, you might as well sharpen the blade while your at it...LOL. the easiest way to check and see if the coil is working is to pull the/a spark plug wire from a plug. Stick a plilips head screwdriver where the plug would have clipped in and hold the screwdriver (by the handle) with the metal part about 1/4 inch away from a bare metal part of the lawnmower. Preferably not the fuel tank. Turn the engine over and watch for sparks to ark to the frame. If its bad you will have no spark or a very weak orange spark. Good spark is Blue or white. The only other way I can think of to test the coil is to have someone bench test it for you, perhaps at a small engine shop. They shouldn't charge you to test it. Especially if they think they will get to sell you a new one. Best of luck.